Casting the Nude Female Torso | Page 4

Figure 17.

The weight of the casting material can often cause the mold to spread. To prevent this, exact measurements of both the width of the bosom and hips are made using a large caliper set. These dimensions are recorded for use when the casting begins.

Figure 18.

The torso mold is laid horizontally and trimmed around the edges. If the excess alginate is not trimmed, it will flop over inside the mold during casting and cause the alginate to pull away from its shell mold.

If the alginate is pulling away from the edges, as it often does, place a dab of MoldEZ between the shell and the underside of the alginate mold and gently press the alginate to the shell mold back together. That method will secure it during casting.

Figure 19.

Using the measurements recorded earlier with the calipers, two bar clamps  . . . one across the hips, the other across the bosom . . . are placed on the torso mold to hold the mold's shape during casting. The caliper is used again to set the exact measurements of the figure onto the clamps. The clamps will keep the torso from spreading out during the casting phase. A one-inch expansion of the torso appears to add ten pounds to the finished piece. So you do not want to cause any spreading.

Figure 20.

Now it is casting time. Casting plaster is mixed at a ratio of 7 parts water to 10 parts plaster . . . in this project CastRite Art Stone was used. For larger mixes an electric drill with a mixer attached is extremely helpful. However, hand mixing is still the preferred method used by many casting artists.

Figure 21.

The first coat of casting plaster is brushed on the surface. Once cured the second and third coats of plaster are added once they have reached a putty-like consistency and smoothed by hand.

After the plaster has cured, the mold is turned over. The shell mold is stripped away, being careful not to put too much pressure on the newly cast torso. Being too aggressive in removing the shell mold will lead to damage to the freshly cast torso.

Figure 22.

After the caster plaster is cured, the model is turn over. The shell mold is carefully stripped away being careful not to put too much pressure on the newly cast torso. Being too aggressive in removing the shell mold will lead to damage to the freshly cast torso.

Figure 23.

The shell mold is removed revealing the completed torso casting. Some cleanup work is usually required on such a casting. A plaster rasp and a sharp box cutter are the best tools for this.

Figure 24.

Once the cast is exposed, it will require some cleanup. The edges are smoothed using a plaster rasp. Flaws can be removed with some careful sanding. Holes or voids can be filled with Spackle. To maintain the skin detail, the skin of an orange or lemon is carefully touched onto the surface of wet Spackle. That method will make an almost invisible repair.

Figure 25.

When the casting has been completed, the artist allows it to dry for several days. He then can seal the surface with a coat of varnish or a clear coat polyurethane to protect it against moisture.

If you want more information on torso casting, EnvironMolds offers a detailed book on the subject, complete with how to find and compensate models, as well as a model release mentioned earlier and instructions on how to build a comfortable mold stand for your model.

Page 1 | 2 | 3 | 4